As much as I love the idea, I’m sure their accountants would find a way around it. That’s largely what trust funds are for today.
Entrapment has a very specific definition, and this ain’t it.
It might still be an illegal speed limit change, but that’s going to depend on an awful lot of details. It’s certainly bad design, but the locals probably like it for the money it brings in.
She probably used it earlier, but not necessarily. She might not have a good place to set her phone in her car.
She might have used it earlier, at a time where it was legal. For instance, setting navigation or music before driving. Or (depending on local laws) while stopped at a light.
It certainly seems like your GPU is causing a crash, but it’s just as likely (maybe even moreso) that the PSU is behind that.
You can look into things like Furmark, MATS and MODS, etc to drill down further. Northwest Repair has plenty of examples on his YT channel.
Is this a new issue, or has it always been the case with this hardware combo?
If it were me, I’d just get a new (and good) PSU from somewhere with a good return policy. If that doesn’t fix it, return the PSU for a GPU. Other people will link to the calculators, and be sure to get a good model from a good brand. Don’t cheap out or ignore the subtle details. A bad PSU will pay you back with all sorts of weird, intermittent stability issues.
Dan Sullivan isn’t exactly a unique name. I bet there are thousands of people in the US with that name, and at least dozens in Alaska alone. Why should one guy get to own that name for elections, and disqualify any challengers who share the same name? What about even more common names like John Smith?
I get that it creates a unique challenge to design the ballot so that it’s clear. I also don’t see that as a difficult task, given that they have different middle initials and one will be listed as the incumbent. Their campaigns will probably emphasize the initials, with something like “The S is for Serious” (except better).
I wouldn’t worry about the battery. Any potential harm comes in before it gets to the battery, and there’s likely a DC-DC converter before that anyway.
The first thing to validate is the listed specs. If your laptop expects 12v (usually listed on a sticker on the device), don’t connect a 19v brick. Same for center-positive/center-negative. USB-C bypasses all of that, since it negotiates a matching spec before charging.
The second thing is how well it adheres to the specs it lists. This isn’t something that you can really test yourself. It would require a lot of specialized equipment and skills, since the answer can change in different circumstances. It might work fine for a while, but eventually deliver rich, chunky volts. This will (likely) fry the motherboard, and maybe more than that. USB-C does NOT bypass this. Some of the worst chargers on the market are USB-C.
The only realistic way to avoid the second is to get a quality charger from a trustworthy source. Many will only recommend OEM, but you also have to be careful about counterfeits on eBay or scAmazon. You can use aftermarket, but only if it’s a trustworthy brand like Anker.